Thriving Nightlife under the Subway

At first sight the Gürtel is not one of Vienna’s most scenic locations. It is a busy arterial road dividing the inner districts from the outer suburbs, and the subway runs along the viaducts of the old Stadtbahn transit system. But this is precisely its appeal. The arches and stations were designed by Jugendstil architect Otto Wagner, and now the arches between Thaliastrasse and Nussdorferstrasse are home to music venues. The heavy traffic meaning means that loud music is not a nuisance, so bands and DJs can pull out all the stops. In the summer the party moves out into the pavement cafés – the whole night – and in the end of August the bars join forces to stage the Gürtel Night Walk with thousands of visitors and live music.

The Gürtel’s stellar popularity was triggered by the Chelsea. Its landlord, a former professional soccer player, had the courage to open a bar there when the area was still a red-light district. Live bands and DJs serve up Britpop, punk and related genres. The differences between Chelsea and its neighbors are clear at a glance. For one thing, it lacks the standard glass façade. The rhiz bar, just a few steps, makes no secret of the goings-on inside. This is home to the Vienna electronic scene, and it is not uncommon for the music to come courtesy of a laptop.

At the B72, guitar music and electronic beats and breaks are lovingly mixed well into the small hours. The neighboring Seen is one of the latest additions to the Gürtel scene. Like the B72, it is split across two levels and draws in clubbers with table football and other extras. Another newcomer is the All In which boasts groovy sounds and excellent cocktails.

The stylish Q [kju:] bar has long been synonymous with a great party mood complete with delicious drinks served to the sound of house and RnB. Things are a little more subdued at the Shiraz. An oriental atmosphere with water pipes and authentic furnishings, snacks and fine wines all add up to a relaxing evening.