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“Café Drechsler is reopening!” The news spread like wildfire and was warmly received by clubbers and market stallholders alike. Café Drechsler on Naschmarkt is open 23 hours a day, and serves the first guests of the day at three in the morning. The Café Drechsler owes much of its charm to the neighbouring Naschmarkt – the undisputed jewel in the crown of Vienna’s 26 permanent markets. Set between Karlsplatz and Kettenbrückengasse, the Naschmarkt is the mainspring one of the city’s most interesting districts. Culinary specialities are always fresh and in bountiful supply here, no matter whether they are typically Viennese or exotic. And trendy bar restaurants like the Naschmarkt Deli have long since gained a foothold. The same is true of the neighbouring Freihaus quarter with its abundance of galleries, bars and restaurants. There is plenty for architecture fans to enjoy, as well, as there are more Jugendstil (art nouveau) buildings to be seen in the area than anywhere else in Vienna. The adjacent Saturday flea market is the stuff of legend for bargain hunters.
Also just a few minutes from the Old Town, near Schwedenplatz, is Karmelitermarkt . The district around this old-style local market had been rather off the map, but with growing numbers of bars, studios and galleries springing up it has seen a renaissance in recent years. Schöne Perle , formerly a Chinese restaurant, is an example of the accomplished new eateries, with an unfussy interior, interesting guests and good cooking. The latest place to open in the area is Skopik & Lohn which owes its appeal to its welcoming and restrained interior, garden, and classic Viennese fare with an international twist.
A colourful, newly fashionable district is springing up around Brunnenmarkt , a little further from the city centre, in Ottakring (16th district). The market exudes South European flair with a strong Turkish flavour. Numerous young artists have set up shop in the surrounding area, making Brunnenmarkt and nearby Yppenmarkt one of the most electric neighbourhoods in the city today. Noi – a bar restaurant and supermarket in one – proves that organic food can taste good, too! The traffic noise free piazza-like square is a real treat in the summer months. Just a stone’s throw away is Staud’s Pavillon with its fine conserves and pickled vegetables. Mrs. Staud sells the delicacies produced by her son’s firm at her own market stand. They are simply irresistible.
4., Wienzeile between Getreidemarkt and Kettenbrücke
Mon–Fri 6am to 7.30pm, Sat 6am to 5pm
6., Linke Wienzeile 22
tel. (01) 581 20 44
www.cafedrechsler.at
4., Naschmarkt stand no. 421–436,
tel. +43 (0)1 5850823;
Mon–Sat 8am to midnight
2., Im Werd, Krummbaumgasse, Leopoldsgasse, Haidgasse,
Mon–Fri 6am to 7.30pm, Sat 6am to 5pm
2., Große Pfarrgasse 2,
tel. (0) 664–243 35 93,
Mon–Fri noon to midnight, Sat–Sun 10am to midnight
www.schoene-perle.at
2., Leopoldsgasse 17,
tel. (01) 219 89 77
daily, 5pm to 1am
www.skopikundlohn.at
16., Brunnengasse and Yppenplatz,
Mon–Fri 6am to 7.30pm, Sat 6am to 5pm
16., Payergasse 12/4,
tel. (01) 403 13 47,
Tues–Fri 11am to midnight, Sat 9am to midnight
www.noi.at.vu
16., Yppenmarkt 93,
tel. (01) 406 88 0521,
Tues–Sat 8am to 12.30pm, Fri 8am to 12.30pm, 3.30–6pm
www.stauds.com