0 Intro

Servus! as we say here in Vienna – and welcome to a guide that will take you on a tour of the city of a famous Viennese figure, who turned the world of psychology on its head. Welcome to the Vienna of Sigmund Freud, the founding father of psychoanalysis. The man whose mission was to get to the bottom of what was really going on inside our heads. No, we won’t be lying on the couch today. Instead, we will be exploring the key locations in Sigmund Freud's life together. I’ll be showing you the places where Freud’s big ideas took shape. We’ll be visiting his favorite coffeehouse, as well as the district where he spent his childhood and youth. But I'll also be sharing some of the darker chapters in his life with you, such as his addictions. In short, you’ll also get to know Sigmund Freud the man – who was just as interesting as his theories. So it’s time to get moving. Let's set off and immerse ourselves in the Vienna of Sigismund Schlomo Freud, as he was actually called.

1 Sigmund Freud Museum

Berggasse 19. You are standing in front of one of the most famous addresses in the whole of Vienna. And the first port of call in the world of psychoanalysis. It was behind this magnificent late-nineteenth-century facade from the Gründerzeit period that Sigmund Freud turned people’s way of looking at the human psyche upside down. Here, he created the basic framework for modern Tiefenpyschologie, or “depth psychology” – developing a completely new view of the human psyche in the process. A game changer, as we would say today. Are you familiar with concepts such as the Oedipus complex, the unconscious and the superego? Well, these terms all began their journey around the world at Berggasse 19. They have long since found their way into everyday language. But Sigmund Freud was no stranger to controversy. During his lifetime, he – and his ideas – proved to be highly controversial. Some people thought he was a genius, while his theories left others shaking their heads in disbelief. But leaving all the debate to one side: Freud is considered to be one of the most influential thinkers of the 20th century. Not many other scientists have been quoted as often as he has. Berggasse 19 was the birthplace for this fresh interpretation of human behavior.

It was not only Sigmund Freud's private address, where he lived for almost 50 years. It was also the location of his well-known practice – and the couch that’s now more famous than many Hollywood stars. A piece of furniture that became a symbol of psychoanalysis. Freud did one thing in his practice above all else. He listened to his patients. They laid on the couch and told him about their dreams and fears. Their innermost fantasies and – sometimes confused – thoughts. Freud knew that many mental knots could be unpicked through in-depth conversation. After all, it was Freud's belief that the driving forces of our psyche were rooted in things we were not conscious of. So exploring this unconscious inner life was his primary concern. He called his method for looking into the depths of the human soul “psychoanalysis”. At the time, this kind of therapy was also referred to as a “talking cure”. Fitting, don't you think?

Today, this famous address is home to the Sigmund Freud Museum. A place where you can immerse yourself in the world of Sigmund Freud and his ideas. His daughter Anna Freud, who also made a name for herself as a psychoanalyst, features prominently here, too. There are original fixtures and items of furniture used by Freud at the time, as well as a faithful replica of his waiting room. But you won’t find his famous couch here. Freud took it with him when he fled to London in 1938 to escape the Nazi regime. And it is still there to this day.

2 Josephinum

Did you know that Vienna was one of the most important places in the world for medicine between the 18th and early 20th century? It was here that the pathologist Karl Landsteiner identified blood groups around 1900. A discovery which earned him a Nobel Prize. The foundations for modern anatomy and diagnosis were also laid in the Austrian capital – following scientific principles and putting an end to the quackery of previous centuries. In fact, Emperor Joseph II had begun to provide state-of-the-art medical infrastructure and education as early as the 18th century. So it’s clear how the groundbreaking ideas of Sigmund Freud were a seamless continuation of these new ways of seeing and thinking about the world. Vienna was the place for medical innovations.

The perfect place to immerse yourself in this period is the Josephinum. More than a museum, the Josephinum symbolizes the importance of medical research and training in Vienna. At its heart is a collection of wax models of the human body. Originating in Florence, these 18th century anatomical exhibits are as fascinating as they are spooky. Today, they are considered works of art in their own right. You’ve got to check them out. Even the display cases are originals from back then.

And the Josephinum also casts an eye on the work of Sigmund Freud. The collection includes a number of unique exhibits, including Freud’s handwritten resumé. A little-known portrait of the great man is also on show there. The permanent exhibition reveals how Freud set himself apart from his contemporaries in the field of psychiatry. Even respected experts in the field, such as Julius Wagner-Jauregg – who would later go on to win a Nobel Prize – still swore by the use of electroshock therapy to treat the mentally ill at the beginning of the 20th century. Freud, by contrast, saw that in-depth conversations were much more effective than the application of physical force. All quite logical, given where we are today isn’t it?

3 Old General Hospital (Altes AKH)

Why are human beings drawn to addictive behavior of all kinds? This was just one of many questions that Sigmund Freud wanted to explore in his research. But did you know that Freud himself was a drug user? And not a casual one either. I'll tell you all about it here, at the former site of Vienna´s general hospital – or Altes AKH for short. Now one of the main sites of the University of Vienna, it is a beautifully relaxed spot. A haven away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

In Sigmund Freud’s day, this huge complex was a famous medical center. And plenty of groundbreaking research has been carried out here over the years. Freud was employed as a young doctor at the old general hospital. He even lived on site for a short time. Unfortunately, there are no records that tell us exactly where. At any rate, Sigmund Freud's time here marked an important stage in his career. It was, however, overshadowed by one major controversial aspect: his cocaine use. Yes, you heard correctly: the young Freud was something of a coke head. It came about like this:

In the 1880s, Freud developed an interest in the medicinal properties of cocaine. A substance that was new in Europe. Seen as a promising medicine at that time, the white powder was used to treat headaches, depression and various other illnesses. Freud’s experiments with cocaine were not confined to himself; he also prescribed it to a number of his patients. He believed that cocaine could be useful as a painkiller and anesthetic.

Ultimately, though, Freud's experiments with cocaine had mixed results. He soon recognized how addictive it could be and saw the health risks associated with taking it. In his essay "On Coca” which he published in 1884, he described the positive and negative effects of cocaine in detail. And despite his early enthusiasm for the substance, Freud soon appreciated just how dangerous and addictive it was. As a result, he put a stop to his pharmaceutical experiments, concentrating more closely on his psychoanalytical theories instead. So you can see that even brilliant minds like Freud can get it completely wrong sometimes.

But his preoccupation with cocaine did set a number of things in motion. It was thanks to Freud that his fellow doctor and friend Carl Koller first became aware of the substance. Koller was interested in exploring the potential of its local anesthetic properties for treatments involving the human eye. Koller started his research. And the rest is history. He pioneered the use of modern local anesthesia in ophthalmology. And he earned himself an amusing nickname along the way. From then on, Freud no longer called his – by this point famous – colleague “Carl Koller”, simply referring to him as "Coca Koller” instead!

4 Sigmund Freud Park

An unspectacular green space hemmed in by several busy roads: at first glance, this space seems to have precious little to do with Sigmund Freud. But appearances can be misleading, because this park – which is located directly opposite the Votivkirche church and the University of Vienna – was named after Sigmund Freud in the 1980s. But maybe you’re wondering why this particular green space was selected for this honor. It is the largest park in the immediate vicinity of Sigmund Freud's former practice and private apartment at Berggasse 19. The fact that Freud will have passed by here every day also has something to do with pets, a passion that came to him later in life. At the age of 72, Freud became a big time dog lover. Much to the dismay of his wife, who cared little for his four-legged companions... Freud, however, just loved Chow Chows. He once said that they reminded him of little lions with their mini manes.

Over the years, Freud had several Chow Chows. Always at his side, they were even present during therapy sessions. You could say that they were the very first therapy dogs. Their names were Lün, Jofi and Lün Yu. And they were an important part of his daily routine, which always played out according to a strict schedule: Freud got up every morning at seven. He received his patients between 8am and 12 noon. After sitting down to lunch with the family, which was served at 1pm each day, Freud would turn his attention to his dogs. His walks around the neighborhood of Berggasse 19 will have inevitably also taken him to the large green spaces around the Votivkirche church at some point.

The rest of Freud’s day followed a similarly precise timetable: at 3pm he would return to his practice for a consultation session. After that it was time for dinner. Ever wondered want Dr. Freud liked to eat most? Freud loved Italian artichokes, boiled beef, and Zwiebelrostbraten – roast beef and crispy onions. What he couldn't stomach? Chicken! – He refused to touch it. 

Talking of food and drink: the park was also on the way from Sigmund Freud's apartment to his favorite coffee house, Café Landtmann. And if you look carefully, you'll spot a monument to the founder of psychoanalysis in Sigmund Freud Park. A large stone slab bearing the following inscription: "The voice of the intellect is quiet". Below that are the Greek letters psi and alpha – Freud’s abbreviation of choice for psychoanalysis. Come on, take a look. Can you find it?

5 University of Vienna

Though Freud is considered to be one of the most influential thinkers of the 20th century, his relationship with the university was defined by conflict. Throughout his entire life, Freud struggled for recognition from the world of academia – his scientific theories were extremely controversial within the university. Freud's ideas were in stark contrast to the doctrine of the time. All of which made it difficult for him to pursue a conventional university career. Many found his ideas too obscure, which led to a lengthy period in the academic wilderness. It would be many years before the scientific value of his work was recognized. Freud was a long way ahead of his time. It was not until 1919 that he was awarded the title of full professor and a chair in neuropathology. 

Hardly surprising really: at the time, the fact that Freud attached so much importance to the sex drive with regard to the human psyche was seen as highly offensive. Sexuality was a massive taboo and better not talked about. And definitely not in the way that Freud talked about it. And on top of that, Freud was Jewish – anti-Semitic prejudices were widespread in university circles.

But Freud refused to let this deter him and concentrated on his private practice instead, which earned him good money. Patients appreciated the controversial doctor's new approaches, because his talking therapies delivered positive results. And this enabled Freud to continue his scientific work. He was not dependent on the university. Freud was free to do his own thing. Even so, it would only be a matter of time before he received recognition from the academic world.

You can see this for yourself in the impressive arcaded courtyard of the University of Vienna. You will find what you are looking for if you head straight through the main entrance. The busts of famous graduates of the university are lined up next to each other here in the courtyard. It’s like a Viennese science Hall of Fame! Notable figures here include the Nobel physics prize winner Erwin Schrödinger, esteemed social scientist Marie Jahoda and celebrated physician Ignaz Semmelweis. And in the 1950s, a monument to Sigmund Freud was added. The special thing about it: the bust shows a rare likeness of him without his distinctive glasses. But you’ll definitely recognize him when you take a walk through the arcades.

6 Café Landtmann

Sigmund Freud was a disciplined man. Well, mostly. His work was his top priority. But he also did have a couple of vices that would stay with him throughout his life. Freud loved cigars. And he was mad about the card game Tarock. For him, the only thing better than smoking and playing cards was combining the two. More evidence that Sigmund Freud was only human. And where’s the best place for humans to indulge in Vienna? You’ve got it. A coffeehouse. Freud was a regular visitor to several coffeehouses. Café Central was one. As was Café Korb, where he met with like-minded individuals when it came to psychoanalysis. But his favorite was Café Landtmann, which you are standing in front of now. Today it is one of the most famous coffeehouses in Vienna.

Freud met up with his friends and fellow doctors at Café Landtmann at least once a week. In a letter to a friend, he once wrote: "On Saturday evenings, after eleven hours of analysis and at the end of a week without a Sunday, I'm no use for anything else so it's good to go and play cards." This illustrious circle also included Julius Schnitzler – the brother of the famous writer Arthur Schnitzler. Together, the gentlemen puffed away on their cigars, playing one hand of cards after another. Freud was in his element here and enjoyed his beloved cigars even more than he ever did at home or in the office. Freud – who never got tired of linking human behavior with sexuality in his theories – even once described smoking as being associated with the need to satisfy unmet oral needs from childhood. Ultimately, though, this particular idea would not stand the test of time. Even so, it went around the world – and is still often quoted.

And Freud had another connection to Café Landtmann. Anna Lieben lived directly above it. She was the wife of the owner of the palatial apartment building. And one of his many patients.

7 Karmeliterviertel

Why am I bringing you here to the Karmeliterviertel? A typical Viennese late-19th-century Gründerzeit neighborhood just a short distance from the hubbub of the city center. It was in this part of the capital that Sigmund Freud spent his youth. Unsurprisingly really, given that the Karmeliterviertel has always been the center of Jewish life in Vienna. The Freud family moved here in 1860. The Freuds originally came from Freiberg in Moravia, now part of the Czech Republic. Wool merchants by trade, the family hoped that business would be better in Vienna than it was back home. The Freuds led a modest life.

At the time of the move, little Sigmund was just four years old. He grew up the eldest of eight children, which was to have a strong influence on his path through life. His mother Amalia was immensely proud of her first-born. Convinced that he was truly exceptional, she reinforced his feelings of being something special. She lived in the knowledge that he would go on to achieve something one day. The ideal starting point for a great career.

But that’s not all: Sigmund Freud was an outstanding student; top of the class. He went to school at number 24 Taborstrasse near the Karmeliterkirche church. He attended grammar school here. The school itself is long gone, though. And there is nothing to remind us of the family or their former apartments in Pfeffergasse, Pillersdorfgasse and Glockengasse. Even so, this part of the city is well worth exploring. The Karmelitermarkt is definitely worth a visit. It’s just a short distance from where you are standing right now. It is one of the most attractive markets in Vienna, with great food and a special atmosphere. Here you can experience Vienna just like the locals do. Come on, let's take a walk around the market! I can guarantee that you’ll work up an appetite here

8 Huber & Lerner

Sigmund Freud had quite a lot going on in his head. And not just when it came to the development of psychoanalysis. The most impressive documents to shed light on his thoughts are the letters he sent to a broad circle of famous figures. He corresponded with Nobel Prize winner Albert Einstein as well as the writer Stefan Zweig. But it was the letters he exchanged with his professional peers such as Carl Gustav Jung, Lou Andreas-Salome and Marie Bonaparte that offer a particularly deep insight into Freud's thinking. Freud's sharp mind is not the only thing to emerge from these exchanges. His constant self-doubt and his great ambitions to break new scientific ground are also plain to see. This correspondence also offers unique insights into the birth of psychoanalysis.

Always dreamed of writing letters like Sigmund Freud? Then you've come to the right place, here in a small side street off Kärntner Strasse. Because you are standing right in front of Huber & Lerner – the stationery store where Sigmund Freud bought the letter paper for much of his correspondence. Freud's stationery is still available here to this day. Well, strictly speaking, it’s a set of correspondence cards and envelopes based on the originals. The set also includes a faithful replica of Sigmund Freud's notepad. It’s all designed to make you feel a bit like the great man.

But the founder of psychoanalysis was just one of Huber & Lerner’s famous customers. A whole series of renowned personalities shopped here – at that time, by the way, the store was in Herrengasse, a few streets away from its current location. In any case, Emperor Franz Joseph I sourced his print materials from Huber & Lerner, as did the Duke of Windsor and the Maharajah of Bhopal. Among the people from the world of art and culture to have appreciated the paperware were Alma Mahler-Werfel, Paula Wessely and Oskar Werner. And Arthur Schnitzler – one of the highest profile writers of his time – was a regular customer, too. Schnitzler went down in company history with a strange quote: "Your store is a museum of trivialities," Schnitzler told the owner, qualifying his somewhat bold statement with a slightly nicer follow-up: "But they make life beautiful!" Feeling curious? Then let's go in and have a look at what they’ve got.

9 Bellevuewiese

What a beautiful spot! You can see the whole of Vienna from the Bellevuewiese meadow. A perfect place to let your mind wander, and a very inspiring place – don't you think? Exactly what Sigmund Freud felt, too. And it was on the Bellevuewiese that the idea for his theory on the interpretation of dreams came to him. His book of the same name is one of his most important and best-known works. It opened up completely new ways of looking at the human psyche. Laying the foundation stone for Freud's great career in the process. But we’re getting ahead of ourselves slightly. 

In Freud’s day, the Schloss Bellevue palace sat upon the meadow. It was an upmarket spa hotel, perfect for relaxing – close to the city but out in the middle of Vienna's vineyards. Viennese celebrities were among its clientele. The palace no longer exists. But the fantastic view lives on.

In the summer of 1895, Freud stayed here for a summer retreat. And on the night of July 23-24, he dreamt what is probably the most famous dream in the world – one that went down in the history of psychoanalysis as "Irma's injection". It was about a patient of Freud's who had thoughtlessly been given an injection by one of Freud's colleagues in a dream. The next day, Freud set to work analyzing this strange and complex dream in detail. He was now certain: dreams are not doom-laden premonitions or prophecies about what the future holds. Instead, it is our unconscious speaking to us. Freud theorized that dreams were an important source of information about people's unconscious experiences. And that they are all about satisfying repressed urges. A groundbreaking insight that made its way around the globe a few years later.

Freud was certain that he had struck upon something special. With this in mind, he wrote a letter to his friend, the German physician Wilhelm Fliess. And it was during this correspondence that Freud speculated on whether a memorial plaque might one day be placed in the grounds of Schloss Bellevue to commemorate his discovery: “Do you suppose that some day a marble tablet will be placed on the house inscribed with these words: ‘In this house on July 24th, 1895 the secret of dreams was revealed to Dr. Sigm. Freud?’ At this moment I see little prospect of it.” Freud's doubts turned out to be unfounded. Because things actually turned out that way. In 1977, a memorial plaque was erected on which his exact words can be read in German and English. You will find this commemorative plaque on a stone slab in the middle of the meadow. A dream for every Sigmund Freud fan, isn't it?

10 Vienna Police HQ – Sühnhaus

Things take a bit of a grisly turn here. In 1881, right where you’re standing now, around 400 people lost their lives in the most horrifying circumstances imaginable. They suffocated, were burned alive or killed in a deadly crush. This December 8 was one of the bleakest days in European theater history. Want to know what happened? A fire broke out in Vienna’s Ringtheater (dt), or Ring Theater (eng), a short time before the show was due to begin. The kind of safety measures that we have in place today were a distant dream. The doors only opened inwards and the emergency lighting did not work. The people in the audience were trapped – a real catastrophe unfolded. The Ringtheater burnt to the ground in the blaze. It was not even possible to say with any certainty just how many people died. 

In response to the fire, Emperor Franz Joseph ordered the construction of the Sühnhaus, the House of Atonement, on the same site. He financed the Neo Gothic apartment building out of his own pocket. Care to take a guess who was among the first tenants to move into the Sühnhaus? 10 out of 10 if you said a young doctor by the name of Sigmund Freud. Recently married, he had his own consultation rooms here. But the location would not bring him much luck either. Freud’s patient Pauline Silberstein fell to her death in the stairwell in 1891. And a few months before, the building’s famous architect Friedrich von Schmidt died at the address. A truly cursed location, you could say. So it’s hardly surprising that the Freud’s couldn’t wait to get away. They moved to Berggasse 19 later that same year. But there were further tribulations ahead: the Sühnhaus too went up in flames right at the end of the second world war. The ruins were torn down in the 1950s and a government building put up in its place in the 1970s. Though hardly an architectural gem, it is still standing to this day.