0 Intro 

Servus – and welcome to Vienna’s showpiece boulevard, the most impressive urban planning project of the 19th century. The Ringstrasse cemented Vienna’s status as one of the world’s greatest cities. And quite rightly so. Here you will be following in the footsteps of leading figures from history including Gustav Mahler and Sigmund Freud, as well as Michael Jackson, Grace Jones and Wes Anderson. If you’re up for it, let’s take a stroll back through history. I’ll tell you about tragedies and scandals – as well as successes and incredible creative achievements. I’ll lead you to some of the city’s top art and design hotspots and reveal why the Ring is not round. 

And I’ll show you a version of Vienna that is less well-known. Between museums, coffeehouses, monumental buildings, parks, universities and government buildings you’ll get to experience a pop culture, contemporary and queer side to the Ringstrasse. ivie has an audio chapter in store for you at each of the places we visit. Let’s go! 

1 Postsparkasse – Austrian Post Savings Bank

The most visionary building ever built on the Ringstrasse? It’s right there in front of you. But let’s start with a little game. Are you looking at the façade of the Austrian Post Savings Bank? Good. Now, turn round 180 degrees. You should be able to see a beast of a building, topped with a huge double-headed eagle. It used to be the war ministry. But which of the two would you say was older? The old-school war ministry, or the Post Savings Bank? Alright, I admit it was a bit of a trick question. As it happens, although it looks way more modern, the Post Savings Bank was actually built years before the building opposite. In 1906. Pretty visionary, I’m sure you’ll agree! 

And that’s precisely why the man behind it – Otto Wagner – is celebrated as one of the pioneering architects of the modern era. It’s a name that crops up all over Vienna. After all, he shaped the cityscape like virtually no-one else. But Wagner’s trailblazing ways weren’t confined to design alone. He was ahead of his time when it came to technology and materials, too. As shown in his use of aluminum, which was a completely new development in construction at the time. It featured in various ways, including in the ductwork of the Post Saving Bank’s state-of-the-art ventilation system, which is seen as an icon of contemporary design. And Wagner was one of the first architects to use reinforced concrete. His overarching approach? Architecture has to serve people – “only that which is practical can be beautiful”, he argued. 

In spite of this – or possibly because of it – Otto Wagner loved playing with details: you can see this on the marble slabs on the façade which are adorned with aluminum plated iron bolts. Their purpose? To convey an important symbolic message to the outside world: this detail gives the building echoes of a treasure chest – intended, you’ve guessed it, to let people know that their money was in safe hands.  

But these days, the Austrian Post Savings Bank is about much more than money. The building is now the science campus of the University of Applied Art, Vienna, Johannes Kepler University Linz and the Austrian Academy of Sciences. Always one for looking to the future, Otto Wagner would have been tickled pink. 

If you have the time and fancy nosing around, I can show you another special place directly behind the war ministry. Walk around the building and you’ll get to the famous Zollamtssteg. Spanning the Wienfluss river, this bridge played a starring role in Richard Linklater’s 1990s classic Before Sunrise with Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy – after The Third Man, one of the best-known Vienna films of all time. And directly below the Zollamtssteg is the Zollamtsbrücke bridge, which – like all of the structures built for the Stadtbahn railway – bears Otto Wagner’s distinctive design signature. The film scene on the Zollamtssteg marks the start of an enchanting walk around Vienna. What was it that Ethan Hawke said to Julie Delpy? “We’re in Vienna. Let’s go to some places.” I couldn’t think of a better quote for our walk along the Ringstrasse boulevard! 

2 MAK - Museum of Applied Arts

“I am not a kitchen!” This has to be one of her best-known quotes. But who exactly is “she”? Viennese architect Margarete Schütte-Lihotzky, whose ideas continue to make your life easier to this day. Schütte-Lihotzky invented the world’s first mass-produced fitted kitchen. Her top priority was to make sure everything was within easy reach, while eliminating unnecessary back and forth in the kitchen. Dubbed the Frankfurt Kitchen, her creation ushered in a new era of functionality. The idea spread around the world like wildfire. You can take a look at a replica of the kitchen at the MAK – Museum of Applied Arts. And you can also find out why Schütte-Lihotzky refused to be pigeonholed as just a kitchenmaker. She was, after all, every inch the pioneer: as one of Austria’s first female architects, as a social housing trailblazer and as a resistance fighter against the Nazis. Hardly surprising really, that she aspired to be more than just a kitchen! Even if it was the very thing that earned her a place in design history.

The Museum of Applied Arts is all about great design, with formal language and the interplay between arts and crafts given a particularly prominent role. All of which has a very strong tradition in Vienna. The Museum of Applied Arts was the first museum to go up on the Ringstrasse. It was finished in 1871. Today, the Wiener Werkstätte collection is one of its highlights. Headed by Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser, this collective of artists was all about driving forward accepted notions of art. The Wiener Werkstätte blurred the lines between art and craftsmanship. Producing everyday objects and furniture as well as jewelry and textiles – all of which were characterized by a rare beauty. The timeless classics created by the Wiener Werkstätte still turn heads to this day. In fact, they continue to be a standard bearer worldwide. The MAK owns the world’s largest museum collection of Wiener Werkstätte objects, items of furniture and textiles. It also holds the original sketches made by Gustav Klimt for the Stoclet Frieze in the palace of the same name in Brussels. They’re definitely worth a look. And a classic example of the kind of creative artistry coming out of fin-de-siècle Vienna!

Vienna’s coffeehouse culture is also world-famous – and directly associated with yet another design icon: the classic coffeehouse chair, with its distinctive curved backrest. Chair Number 14 is Thonet’s signature piece. And it was an idea with legs: beechwood soon found itself bent into any number of shapes. As it happens, bentwood furniture took the world by storm, because it could easily be taken apart, making shipping particularly cost-effective. The numbers speak for themselves: by 1930 around 50 million Number 14 chairs had been sold! The MAK gives visitors an in-depth insight into the world of Thonet.

But it is also a hotspot for contemporary art and modern architecture. Fashion plays a role here, too. Think back to the 1990s, when Viennese fashion designer Helmut Lang was making waves in the world of fashion. His clear minimalist designs captured the moment. The Museum of Applied Arts owns the Helmut Lang archives  – a huge collection of his work. Permanent exhibits include his now iconic men’s suits. They show beyond any doubt just how far ahead of his time he was. 

3 Café Prückel  

What’s the best thing to do in Vienna if you want to feel like a famous writer? Exactly. Head for a coffeehouse. There really is nothing quite like the charm and atmosphere of a Viennese coffeehouse: as before, people still go there to read the paper, work, set the world to rights or simply pass the time of day. Alone or in company. As people here are so fond of saying: there’s nowhere better to be alone in company than a coffeehouse.

Right in front of you, Café Prückel is one of these magical places where time seems to stand still, but still flies by somehow – with the comforting rattle of coffee cups, repartee from charmingly sharp-witted waiters and the rustle of newspapers providing the soundtrack. 

Although an absolute paradigm of Ringstrasse coffeehouse culture, Prückel is still something of an oddity. Originally opened shortly after 1900, it was completely remodeled in the 1950s. Its famous and enduringly popular mid-century ambience was created by the Viennese architect Oswald Haerdtl. In addition to high-profile projects such as the Wien Museum, it was interiors and everyday objects that fueled his rise to prominence. With his keen eye for detail, everything from the coat stands to umbrella racks reflect a consistent design aesthetic. An absolute highlight of Viennese post-war architecture. 

And another reason why Prückel is something of an outlier is that it’s one of the few Ringstrasse cafés where locals tend to outnumber tourists. A popular haunt among creatives and students from the surrounding universities, it is also an established venue for readings and live piano music. Alternatively, you can head downstairs to the basement which hosts regular theater and cabaret events.

As an interesting aside: the fact that a bike lane passes right outside Prückel would have been music to the ears of its founder – who was none other than former European champion track cyclist Maxime Lurion. 

4 Stadtpark

Take a deep breath – and exhale. Glorious. Feel the tension leave your body as your lungs take fresh clean air into your body. And the Stadtpark plays a similar role for Vienna. “Green for the Capital!” proclaimed former mayor of Vienna, Cajetan von Felder back in the 19th century. 

There’s plenty to explore at the Stadtpark, which is the largest of all the parks lining the Ringstrasse boulevard. Are you standing directly in front of the little weather station in the center of the park? Look along the Ringstrasse in the direction of road traffic and you will see the magnificent Kursalon. It was here that the Strauss brothers celebrated some of their greatest achievements. But you can rest assured that the Kursalon is still filled with music and life to this day. The air of exclusivity and green backdrop of the Stadtpark with its numerous famous statues give it an edge as a popular event location. 

In fact, one of these statues is the most photographed monument in Vienna. Located between the Kursalon and where you are standing right now, it depicts Johann Strauss the Younger playing the violin. Known as the Waltz King, he composed around 170 waltzes – outperforming his father to the tune of 20 pieces! Including the world-famous Blue Danube Waltz.

But it’s not just here that you can take a snapshot of this gilt statue. There are replicas of it in Osaka, Kunming, Shanghai and Havana. On a related note, Strauss himself is still in town: laid to rest in one of the graves of honor at the Zentralfriedhof, or Central Cemetery. 

Behind the Strauss statue you will see a shallow river: a small section of the 34-kilometer-long Wienfluss. This river wends its way from the Vienna Woods through the suburbs and on to the first district where it empties into the Danube Canal close to the Ringstrasse. The architectural accents around it are a real highlight – if you head left towards the Wienfluss from the Kursalon you will see the Viennese Art Nouveau portal with its twin pavilions. And right next to it we bump into an old friend: Otto Wagner, who designed the station for the Wiener Stadtbahn railway here. You’ll be able to identify the majority of his works by the special shade of green which is known as – you guessed it – “Otto Wagner green”. 

Looking around, it won’t be long before you’re struck by just how beautiful the world can be. But you’re not the only one. If you look towards the Ringstrasse, you will see the outline of a hotel through the treetops. It was here at the Vienna Marriott Hotel that the King of Pop composed his epic Earth Song in June 1988. We are, of course, talking about Michael Jackson. As the story goes, he was so overcome by the beauty of the Ringstrasse that he soon found himself lost in thought. But what was on his mind? The mark that humans are leaving on the planet. Jackson picked up his pen and got to work turning his thoughts into music. So you can see that the Ringstrasse is a source of all kinds of inspiration.

Another place that never fails to inspire is the Gartenbaukino cinema, which has hosted countless premieres over the years. Located right next door to the Marriott, it is famous for serving up cinematic treats. The grand opening was attended by none other than Kirk Douglas, with Spartacus on the billing at the time. These days, the Gartenbaukino is one of the key locations of the Viennale – the nation’s leading international film festival. A fantastic location – for movie buffs and fans of great design alike. Lovingly restored, the breathtaking mid-century interiors are a real sight to behold.

5 Palais Erzherzog Ludwig Viktor 

Chance is a funny thing. In 1996, the very first Rainbow Parade made its way past the location of only the openly gay Habsburg’s palace. We are, of course, talking about Archduke Ludwig Viktor, the youngest brother of Emperor Franz Joseph. The Rainbow Parade – Austria’s largest demonstration in the name of equal opportunities and LGBT rights – takes to the Ringstrasse boulevard every June.

Ludwig Viktor, affectionately known as Luziwuzi, was gay and the enfant terrible of Viennese high society. Princess Nora Fugger wrote in her autobiography: “His tongue was as sharp as a venomous snake’s.” And Luziwuzi also got his sister-in-law Sisi – Empress Elisabeth to you and me – all het up: “He gossiped and lied so much that he really did spoil my life. He hasn’t got a good word to say about anyone. And that includes me.” But he was the brother of the Emperor, which meant that he could more or less do as he pleased. In 1863, he commissioned Heinrich von Ferstel to build the palace bearing his name on the corner of the Ringstrasse and Schwarzenbergplatz. It was one of the most elegant mansions in all of Vienna. Complete with a ballroom and winter garden. Obviously.

But what it was missing was a pool. So Luziwuzi was obliged to go to a public bathhouse – the Centralbad – instead. Here he was accused of touching another patron inappropriately, earning himself a clip round the ear for his trouble. The bathhouse is still around today, but goes by the name of the Kaiserbründl. Today, nobody is in the slightest bit concerned about contact between members of the same sex – these days Vienna is one of the most LGBT-friendly cities in Europe. And the  Kaiserbründl, just off the Ringstrasse, is the capital’s best-known gay sauna.

In the wake of his bathhouse scandal, Luziwuzi was packed off to Schloss Klessheim in Salzburg. Where he invited an officer to join him for a swim – without giving him any swimming trunks. The scandals just kept on coming.

Today, his Viennese pad is home to Burgtheater-offshoot Kasino am Schwarzenbergplatz. A good match somehow, as Ludwig Viktor loved life in the limelight. And although Luziwuzi ruffled a few feathers at the time, he was free to live as a homosexual and even enjoyed a close relationship with the staunchly conservative Emperor Franz Joseph.

And now for something completely different. Did you notice that the Ringstrasse is not actually circular? It is made up of lots of straights interspersed with doglegs – this was for strategic military reasons. The idea was that it would allow any rebellions to be put down more easily. The revolutions of 1848 were still fresh in the minds of the ruling elite. But don’t worry, the theory was never tested. There weren’t actually any revolts in the Ringstrasse’s illustrious history.

6 Albertina Modern

No. Size doesn’t matter. After all, even the smallest building on the Ringstrasse is a real head turner. The beautiful Künstlerhaus, which you are now standing in front of, has been one of the most important exhibition venues on the Ringstrasse ever since it opened. Here, an incredible degree of artistic diversity awaits. Being as it is, home to two different art institutions. But we’re getting ahead of ourselves slightly.

On the ground floor and the basement level you will find the Albertina modern, one of the city’s newest cultural gems. This offshoot of the world-famous Albertina is fully focused on modern, postmodern, and contemporary art. Chinese superstar Ai Weiwei is among those to have already graced it with his presence. Captivating 20th century Austrian art is another recurring topic, as the Albertina modern is home to the Essl Collection – the most important collection of Austrian post-war art. Lasting impressions are guaranteed: previous stars of the show include Hermann Nitsch’s gory poured paintings, Gottfried Helnwein’s unflinching, hyperrealistic observations on society and the works of Maria Lassnig. It’s all about the kind of art that takes a definitive stance and strikes a chord with everyone who sees it. You included. The interiors also leave an enduring impression. Particularly the grand staircase that looks just like it did when the Ringstrasse was built. Step inside and let the opulence work its magic on you.

Head up the stairs and you will find the exhibition rooms of the Künstlerhaus Artists’ Association. Around since the mid-19th century, its members were behind the construction of the building. Its raison d’etre? To play an active role in shaping and enriching cultural life in Austria. A goal it achieved with flying colors. As it so happens, thanks to the use of an early form of crowdfunding, the Künstlerhaus was the first self-financed association building of its kind in the German-speaking world. But the Künstlerhaus is definitely not given over to worshipping the past. Its exhibitions concentrate on contemporary themes with a relevance to present-day society. If that wasn’t enough, the Künstlerhaus is also a magnet for movie buffs. As the home of the Stadtkino, Vienna’s oldest arthouse cinema.

7 Vienna State Opera 

“Sunken crate!” was Emperor Franz Joseph’s not so-polite reaction. But what building was he talking about? Well, you are standing right in front of it: the Vienna State Opera. It was a comment that would have devastating consequences: neither of its architects would live to see it open.

The story goes as follows: During the building’s construction the thoroughfare of the Ringstrasse was retroactively raised by a full meter – which really didn’t do the new opera house any favors. It made it look like it was sinking into the ground. The difference in levels led to a right royal controversy.

The architects Eduard van der Nüll and August Sicard von Sicardsburg became a laughing stock. But the issue was all down to a lack of foresight by the Imperial Court Construction Office. On top of that, their take on Renaissance Revival architecture came under fire from a critical Viennese public, which saw it as a hodgepodge of different styles. When Emperor Franz Joseph weighed in, calling the opera a “sunken crate” the situation escalated to the point that van der Nüll took his own life. Just a few weeks later, von Sicardsburg succumbed to a lung condition. Both architects died before its official inauguration. A tragic story that troubled the Emperor. Have you ever heard the saying “It was very nice, the pleasure was all mine.”? Legend has it that the tragic demise of the two architects saw this courtly flourish stick. Used to give a non-committal response, it became synonymous with a refusal to be drawn on any subject.

The weight of public opinion soon swung in behind the Vienna State Opera. After all, the venue was of huge significance for cultural life in the city. Badly damaged in the Second World War, the decision to rebuild the opera house was taken in no time at all. And so it came to pass – the doors to the Vienna State Opera reopened in 1955 with Beethoven’s Fidelio. Sending out a signal heard far beyond the city limits. Around the world, the grand reopening came to symbolize the newly established Second Republic.

Today the locals fondly refer to the Vienna State Opera as “the first house on the Ring”. Over the years, its lavish corridors have hosted Gustav Mahler, Herbert von Karajan, Agnes Baltsa, Franz Welser-Möst and Pamela Anderson. Yes, you heard correctly. Pamela Anderson, Grace Jones and Sophia Loren are just some of the international stars to have taken up a famous Viennese construction mogul’s invitation to join him as his plus one for the Vienna Opera Ball. Appearing alongside the great and good of Viennese society – and everyone hoping to join their ranks some day.

But it’s not just half of Hollywood that have called in at the opera. The opposite also applies: the Vienna State Opera is no stranger to the big screen either. It hit the Hollywood big time alongside Tom Cruise in the fifth instalment of the Mission: Impossible franchise.

8 Heidi Horten Collection  

Now, the sounds of people being wowed in surprise fills the air. But it was once filled with the sounds of whinnying horses. Yes, we’re at the former site of Archduke Albrecht’s school of equestrianism. You are in the Hanuschhof complex, another of those special places on the Ringstrasse that has a rich history to tell.

Today, you are outside a truly modern art gallery: the Heidi Horten Collection. The “Stöcklgebäude” – the courtyard building that houses it – was refurbished between 2020 and 2022. Its historic façade was painstakingly restored and greened in the process. In addition to completely gutting the main structure, workers added a new floating exhibition level. Inspired… There is also a terrace and a leafy sculpture garden which is open to the general public. 

We have Austrian billionaire Heidi Goëss-Horten to thank for this new museum highlight. A passionate art collector, she put some of her works on show at the Leopold Museum in 2018 in an exhibition entitled “Wow!”. A sell-out event at the time. And now she has a whole museum in a prime location between the Vienna State Opera, Albertina and Burggarten. It features 1,500m² of exhibition space spread across three levels.

The body of works put together by Goëss-Horten since the early 1990s comprises several hundred pieces and is among the top private collections in Europe. A fascinating cross-section of international art history featuring representatives of various genres including early modernism, neo expressionism and pop art: works by Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol and Georg Baselitz are among the stand-out pieces. In short: it’s a real best of.

And to finish up with, there’s another treat for you to enjoy: by now, we assume you have stumbled across the sausage stands dotted along the Ringstrasse. One of the best-known of them all is right next to the Hanuschhof: Bitzinger. It even serves champagne to go with the sausages. A very Viennese take on fast food, you could say. But then again, people in Vienna like to take their sweet time over a Käsekrainer. After all, enjoyment is sacred for the Viennese.

9 Burggarten 

You’ll never guess who took care of the gardens here around 200 years ago. It was none other than the emperor himself! ­ – Franz I. He was a trained horticulturist. Hard to believe, isn’t it? Back then, this was the site of the private imperial garden. But today’s Burggarten has little to do with the original. Especially as it was strictly off limits to the general public. Here, members of the court would take a walk, while the Emperor put his green thumbs to work. It wasn’t until the end of the First World War that the grounds were finally opened up to the general public. And today, it is even open to horses. Well, at least the famous Lippizaner stallions of the Spanish Riding School. They take their early morning stroll here. You have probably spotted the four paddocks next to Goethegasse by now. They were set up for the magnificent steeds to relax in while they enjoyed a spot of fresh air.

But these aren’t the only animals to inhabit the Burggarten. Well, the Palm House – to be precise. The left-hand side of this gigantic hothouse is home to the Butterfly House. Take a look through the windows – can you make out a tropical jungle? Inside you’ll find more than 50 different kinds of butterflies flitting about. A bit like in a fairytale.

But it wasn’t always this idyllic. At the end of the 1970s things were quite different. Back then, the lawns were strictly off limits. Young people had had enough of the rules and refused to comply. Their demand: “freedom to roam!” Conservative Vienna was up in arms over the rebellious “hippies and freaks”, as they were labeled at the time. It might sound absurd today, but it actually marked the start of a Viennese youth movement. There were demonstrations, arrests, fines and sit ins. In an unashamed attempt to discredit the assembled youths, one tabloid published allegations of “drug taking, duck slayings and sex orgies”. Even German punk icon Nina Hagen caught wind of it all, joining the protesters on a solidarity mission in 1979. The young people refused to back down. And the outcome is that you can let your hair down on the lawns today. Drug taking, duck slayings and sex orgies are still prohibited, though.

10 Maria Theresa Monument 

What do Maria Theresa, Austria’s most famous nude and the world’s largest collection of Breugels have in common? You can meet them all here. Where should I start? – This place has a thousand stories to tell!

If you turn your back on the Ringstrasse you will see a monumental building in the Italian Renaissance style rising to the heavens. And to the right, directly opposite, you will see the same building once again. Well, almost the same. The main differences between these twin buildings can be found on the inside. The Kunsthistorisches Museum is on the left, the Museum of Natural History on the right. And between them? A large space, deliberately left open to let these monumental edifices shine. 

Do you know who it is, holding court in the center of the square? Cursed by generations of schoolchildren as the person behind the introduction of compulsory education, it’s Maria Theresa! Her monument is the most important of all the statues put up to honor the Habsburg monarchy. 

The symmetry of the square and the twin buildings resonated with aesthete and film maker Wes Anderson and his partner, the author and design Juman Malouf – doubtless setting their pulses racing when they put together an exhibition of their personal favorite objects from the Kunsthistorisches Museum in a temporary exhibition a few years ago. Other famous fans of the museum include fashion designer Vivienne Westwood, who staged a show of her creations here a while back. 

If you cross the threshold of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, or KHM for short, you will be greeted with a striking sight. A magnificent domed hall, opulent decor and stunning marble floors. And at the heart of it all? Art, art and even more art. The magnificent exhibition halls are brimming with exhibits, including the Peasant Wedding and The Tower of Babel, which are among the leading lights of the Bruegel collection. The KHM also has masterpieces by Raffael, Rembrandt and Vermeer. As well as priceless artifacts and objects including Cellini’s golden Saliera salt cellar. 

Opposite, its twin – the Museum of Natural History – has different treasures in store. Such as the most famous nude to have ever been turned up during an archaeological dig in Austria: the Venus of Willendorf, which is around 30,000 years old.

And giant dinosaur skeletons – as well as, in a somewhat ironic twist, one of the world’s largest collections of the self-same cosmic projectiles that wiped them out in the first place: meteorites.

I’m telling you, I could spend days on end in places like this. How about you? Then remember this part of town – you won’t find such a dense concentration of museums anywhere else. If you look straight ahead, with the Ringstrasse behind you, you will see the facade of a very wide, sandy-colored building. The MuseumsQuartier – which comprises the Leopold Museum, the mumok museum of modern art, the Architekturzentrum Wien, the Kunsthalle and various other museums. The MQ, as the locals call it, is one of the capital’s most popular open-air hangouts for students and creative types.

11 Parliament

Austria’s political heart beats in the imposing, newly renovated parliament building. Like the members of the upper and lower houses, you can come and go as you please – as this bastion of Austrian democracy is open to all.  

The premises were fully refurbished – and extended – between 2018 and 2022. A visitor center and glass-fronted gallery were added. The latter provides an unprecedented insight into the main chamber. There are also spectacular views to be had if you head upstairs to the terrace complete with its own restaurant, which is also open to the public. 

Everything began here in the 1870s with Theophil Hansen. In a nod to classical Greek democracy, he opted for the Hellenistic style. The name of this star architect keeps cropping up in Vienna. They say he referred to the Parliament as the culmination of his life’s work. And you can see why, just from the outside. In front of the building, Pallas Athene – the Greek goddess of wisdom – holds court. The 4-meter-high statue is surrounded by a lavish fountain. And the imposing columns behind add to the unmistakably Hellenic picture. It’s definitely worth taking a closer look at the numerous statues and sculptures in front of the building and on the facade. Can you identify them all, on the access ramp and gabled roof? 

As you can see, the Parliament is pretty impressive. And it seems that Bob Dylan felt the same way. One of the figures from the Pallas Athene fountain has pride of place on the cover of his album Tempest, which – as you probably know – is another word for storm. Talking of stormy weather: thunderous debates were not uncommon at meetings of the Imperial Council in the days of the empire. Beside fierce discussions, sessions were punctuated with fist fights and even the occasional shooting! Portents of the inevitable fall of the Habsburg monarchy. News of this outrageous behavior spread like wildfire. Even Mark Twain, who lived in Vienna for almost two years at the end of the 19th century, went to see for himself and immortalized the highly charged atmosphere in two of his texts.  

One thing is certain: the Parliament has been through some interesting times and there are bound to be plenty more to come. 

12 City Hall 

Talk about a bureaucratic nightmare – but not at Vienna City Hall! You are looking at a building that is all about openness and transparency – one that has hosted lots of celebrations down the years and locals have no end of stories about. City Hall is about much more than local government. 

All year round, it’s bursting with life. People flock here to dance at balls and parties. It’s as much a location for concerts, galas and events of every stripe. And the giant ballroom, spectacular colonnaded courtyard and the square in front of the building makes it predestined for moonlighting as an event venue. So it would be a shame to squander the opportunity. For years, City Hall hosted the Life Ball, which brought celebrities from all over the world to the capital.

Rathausplatz – the square outside – is a surprisingly versatile venue: it was the fan zone for the 2008 UEFA European Championships. The LGBT community celebrates Vienna Pride here, too. In summer it’s used for cinema and concert film screenings. And in the winter it’ll warm the cockles of your heart with the Vienna Christmas World and Vienna Ice Dream.

The square is watched over by someone special. Cast your eyes upwards to the top of City Hall’s central tower. It’s capped by the “Rathausmann”. This 5.4-meter-high addition allowed the municipal authorities to neatly sidestep a decree from Emperor Franz Joseph. This stipulated that the main tower at City Hall must not exceed 99 meters – the height of the Votive Church, which was dedicated to the great ruler. And coming in at just 98 meters above ground, the tallest of the towers at City Hall complied to the letter – after all, the restrictions only applied to the tower. Pretty crafty! The giant statue takes a size 63 shoe, if you were wondering.

Friedrich von Schmidt, the architect behind this Neo Gothic building, wanted to pay tribute to the medieval idea of municipal freedom and signal Vienna’s deep-rooted self-assurance to the outside world. Mission accomplished. 

If you decide to walk a few steps around City Hall then you should definitely head inside through one of the side entrances. Anyone and everyone is welcome to walk through the building. And check out the colonnaded courtyard which is definitely worth a look. 

Before we continue our tour along the showpiece boulevard, you should cast your eye over the building located directly opposite City Hall. A theatrical masterpiece. And the productions staged at the Burgtheater – the biggest and most important theater in the German speaking world – are never afraid to court controversy.

13 University of Vienna 

 The spot where you are right now was once graced by Nobel Prize winners Erwin Schrödinger and Elfriede Jellinek. They both studied at the University of Vienna. The university is not only the largest higher education institute in the German-speaking world, but also the oldest. In fact, the uni dates back to the Middle Ages – it was founded in 1365, albeit in another part of the old town. Today, around 100,000 students satisfy their thirst for knowledge at the University of Vienna. They come from all over the world, fill the city’s coffeehouses and parks with life and help shape Vienna as a city of international encounters.

The main building was completed in 1884 according to blueprints drawn up by Heinrich von Ferstel. The architect wanted ceiling paintings for the Great Hall, and unwittingly triggered one of the great art scandals of the 20th century in the process. The commission went to two prominent artists of the day: Franz Matsch and Gustav Klimt. The initial designs for the central painting presented by Matsch were presented and went down well – Klimt too submitted a draft. But only for one of the three images he was commissioned to make. For several years, the two painters worked on their pieces – years during which Klimt’s style changed dramatically.

When he finally unveiled his three pictures, they went down like a lead balloon. Klimt’s downbeat – and critical – view on science was met with a wave of indignation. Because, rather than celebrating it as custom dictated, his pictures showed the unadorned truth of illness and poverty. Huge controversy followed – and ultimately his faculty paintings were never displayed in the Great Hall. Klimt ended up buying back the works. Afterwards he refused to take another public commission. Instead, he poured all of his energy into the portraits and landscapes that are known and loved the world over today. Initially confiscated and Aryanized, his Faculty Pictures were lost in 1945 in a fire at Schloss Immendorf started by the Nazis. Today, reproductions of the works can be seen on the ceiling of the hall.

Come with me and I will show you the university’s colonnaded courtyard. It’s open to the public – just go in through the main entrance, cross the Aula and there it is. In addition to leafy trees and numerous benches, you will find countless statues dedicated to prominent personalities, including the father of psychoanalysis Sigmund Freud and the celebrated pathologist Carl von Rokitansky. There are also monuments to the accomplishments of women in science: seven new memorials were installed in 2016 honoring high-profile figures including social psychologist Marie Jahoda, nuclear physicist Lise Meitner and founder of developmental psychology Charlotte Bühler.

 14 Votivkirche Church 

Running such an ethnically diverse empire was never going to be easy. And no-one appreciated that more than Emperor Franz Joseph. The construction of the Votivkirche – or Votive Church to give it its English name – stemmed from a dramatic event: as a young man, the Emperor was the victim of an assassination attempt. But luck was on his side. He survived the knife attack – and to show his gratitude, he built a monument: the Votivkirche, which towers 100 meters into the heavens. It was the only church to be built during the construction of the Ringstrasse. Today, it is feted as one of the world’s greatest Gothic revival churches.

Lots of visitors to Vienna mistake the Votive Church for St. Stephen's Cathedral. And it’s easy to see why, as both are beautiful outside and in. The Votivkirche even has a little museum brimming with cultural gems, such as the 500-year-old Antwerp Altar. A masterpiece of its age. The museum alone is worth the visit, particularly as it is located high up in the raised oratorio. From here you can enjoy the interior of the church in all its majestic glory. You really don’t want to miss it. Like so many of the buildings on the Ringstrasse, the Votive Church was built by Heinrich von Ferstel. He was just 26 years old when he designed it. A man of considerable talent.

Talking of talent, if you turn around and look at the park between the Ring and the Votivkirche you will encounter another of Vienna’s brightest minds. Sigmund Freud. The park is named in his honor. With good reason. Just a few streets away is the famous address Berggasse 19. Aka the birthplace of psychoanalysis. It was here that Freud had his consulting rooms, where he explored the depths of the human condition. The founding father of psychoanalysis lived here for a full 47 years. Today, the building is home to a highly recommendable museum devoted to the life and work of the great man. You can also visit the Freud family’s private apartment and the practice run by Anna Freud here. A quick detour that is worth every second – and a beautiful note to end this city walk on.