Vienna is the only European capital with a significant winegrowing industry within its city limits. It is largely known for its still wines – chief among them Wiener Gemischter Satz. Made from several different varieties of white grape, this uniquely Viennese wine is a bone fide regional specialty. Production is subject to strict rules: the varieties must all be grown together in a single vineyard, and there must be at least three of them. Next, all of the different grapes have to be harvested and processed together.

Sophisticated and elegant

The Gemischter Satz is a homegrown success story. This dry white wine has put Viennese wine firmly on the international wine map. A local specialty, it enjoys DAC status – a legally controlled designation of origin. But the world of Viennese wine doesn’t stop at still varieties. More and more of the capital’s estates are focusing on sparkling wines. And not just any old plonk, but sparkling Sekts that are crafted using all of the tricks of the expert Sektmaker’s trade. While many like to draw on the flavor profile of the Gemischter Satz for their Sekt, they cannot officially adopt the DAC appellation due to the strict rules in place governing its use. These sparkling wines are fresh, elegant, and precise. Pure drinking pleasure. And they are produced using the same method as the famous luxury sparklers from France – the Méthode Traditionnelle, i.e. time-honored bottle fermentation. The most sophisticated and finest method to make wine sparkle.

Demeter Sekt from Vienna

Weingut Zahel is also making its mark in this segment. Certified organic, the wines that come out of this particular estate are produced according to Demeter guidelines, which say that the grapes must be hand-picked, and highlights soil health is a priority. Now in its fourth generation, this winery’s Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature is one of Vienna’s most remarkable sparkling wines.

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It is made using grapes from a Wiener Gemischter Satz vineyard. No additional “dosage” – which makers use to increase sweetness – is added. “We work with around seven grape varieties, depending on the vintage. Riesling and Neuburger grapes, in particular, give the sparkling wine its freshness,” explains Lars Lackner-Petz, the winery’s marketing manager. Without a certain base acidity, the Sekt will be missing its zestiness. “That’s why we don’t produce the Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature every year. In particularly warm years, when the grapes have less acidity, we give it a miss. Because an elegant Sekt needs acidity.”

This particular sparkling wine is not only an excellent aperitif. “It especially shines as a food pairing with fish dishes thanks to its distinctive flavors,” says Lackner-Petz. Zahel’s Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature is served at one of the city’s top tier restaurants – Salonplafond in the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK). But it’s best experienced at the source, in Mauer in the 23rd district, where the Zahel family also runs a Heuriger wine tavern. Their wines are in demand all over the world, and particularly in Asia: “Japan, China, Hong Kong, and Singapore are important markets. We also export to the USA, Canada, and numerous European countries.”

A Glass of Joy

Weingut Christ also produces quality organic sparkling wines. Organic varieties are not really a rarity here, though, given that Vienna leads the way with an impressive 45% of its vineyards devoted to organic viticulture. Christ winery is a traditional estate that has truly earned that particular tag. “My family has been growing wine for over 400 years,” says winemaker Rainer Christ.  

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For more than two decades now, sparkling wines have been a particular focus: the joyful Freude Grand Cuvée Brut is the name of Christ’s top sparkling wine, made from grapes grown northeast of the Danube at Bisamberg. “The sparkling wine is made based on a Wiener Gemischter Satz harvest,” explains Rainer Christ. What’s special about this base wine? “Normally, Grüner Veltliner is the dominant grape variety in Gemischter Satz. But here, it only plays a supporting role. Which is a real novelty.”

The name “Freude” (joy) couldn’t be more fitting: “It’s a real special-occasion Sekt full of freshness and elegance, containing only a moderate amount of sugar – a sparkling wine with great finesse, perfect for Asian dishes as well as breaded, deep-fried specialties.” So it’s hardly surprising to learn that Freude Grand Cuvée Brut is the house sparkling wine in some of Vienna’s best hotels. It’s also available at the winery’s own Heuriger in Grossjedlersdorf in Vienna’s 21st district. In fact, though, a large portion of this sparkling wine is exported: “We’re strongly represented in fine dining in the Benelux countries, especially the Netherlands. It’s also very well-received in the UK.” 

Municipal Wine Matters

The importance of wine in Vienna is demonstrated by the renowned Weingut Cobenzl, which the City of Vienna has owned and operated since 1907. So, in Vienna you could say that wine is something of a municipal matter. Certified organic since 2023, the winery on the Cobenzl hill it is named after manages around 60 hectares of vineyards.

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These include top terroirs like the Ried Reisenberg vineyard in Grinzing: “Our Sekt Austria Reserve Wien is made exclusively from grapes from this prime site,” explains head winemaker Georg Königsbauer. Also derived from a base wine in the style of a Gemischter Satz, this sparkling wine has taken the State Champion title at the Vienna Wine Awards multiple times.

“Nutty aromas and elegant spice notes, as well as apple and grapefruit flavors characterize this sparkling wine,” says Königsbauer. This vintage sparkling wine is as good for food pairing as it is as an aperitif. Anyone wanting to try Sekt Austria Reserve Wien when out for a meal should head to the basement of Vienna’s City Hall, where they will find the renowned Rathauskeller restaurant. But the sparkling wine is also available near the Cobenzl winery, which sits high above Vienna and offers stunning views of the city below. “Café Rondell and the Waldgrill restaurant both serve this sparkling wine,” says Königsbauer.

The Authentic Taste of Vienna

Fuhrgassl-Huber produces its sparkling wine according to the rules that define the international sparkling wine zeitgeist. Its Sekt Reserve Brut Nature contains minimal sugar and sulfur, resulting in a particularly authentic taste experience. 

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“It’s a very mineral-bodied sparkling wine with a fresh note, subtle fruit, and fine bubbles,” says the winery’s sommelier Katharina Napokoj, summing up the sparkling wine’s essence. The base wine is a Wiener Gemischter Satz from Neustift am Walde, made from Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, and Müller Thurgau.

Sparkling wine from Vienna is definitely on trend. “Sales of sparkling wine are rising, as it’s increasingly seen as an everyday drink – and not just for special occasions,” confirms Napokoj, who recommends pairing the Sekt Reserve Brut Nature with light dishes, fish, seafood or tender veal. Based in Neustift am Walde in the 19th district, the Fuhrgassl-Huber winery has its own Buschenschank tavern where the house sparkling wine flows.

Sparkling Rosé from Pfarrplatz 

Vienna also excels in rosé sparkling wine, as the renowned Mayer am Pfarrplatz winery impressively proves with Das prickelnde Fräulein Rosé. This winery is another that is deeply rooted in the city’s history.

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Wine has been made here since 1683. And it is in the venerable building housing the winery’s Heuriger that Ludwig van Beethoven once lived in 1817. He would surely have expressed his joy about the floral and aromatic rosé sparkling wine. It’s made from Zweigelt grapes grown in Vienna and nearby Klosterneuburg. “The sparkling wine pairs wonderfully with summery dishes, grilled seafood, and fruity berry desserts,” recommends Pascal Raab of Mayer am Pfarrplatz. “It’s also great with a classic Viennese Brettljause cold cut platter. And it’s, of course, a fantastic Sekt as an aperitif.”

Text: Johannes Luxner