Hietzing

Hietzing is Vienna’s 13th municipal district in the southwest of the city and borders directly on the Wienerwald. Historically, the district is closely associated with the Habsburg monarchy – its proximity to Schönbrunn Palace made it, from the 18th century onward, a preferred place of residence for the aristocracy, the upper middle class, and artists. This history remains visible in the cityscape to this day, in a dense sequence of Biedermeier villas, Jugendstil buildings, and grand middle-class residential architecture. Just under three quarters of Hietzing is green space, and a large portion of that, in turn, is forest. This makes Hietzing an exception not only in terms of architectural history, but also in terms of urban ecology.

Hietzing is not a “scene” district in the conventional sense. There are no concentrated dining or shopping strips, no clusters of galleries, and no urban nightlife. What distinguishes the district is an unusual density of historic settings in immediate proximity to one another. A UNESCO-Welterbe site, a nature reserve, modernist architecture, and imperial hunting grounds. Added to this is a distinctly quiet, almost suburban character, which contrasts with the direct U-Bahn connection to the city center (taking the U4, you can get here from Karlsplatz in 11 minutes). 

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Imperial Vienna: Schönbrunn Palace and Zoo

The dominant landmark of the Hietzing district is Schönbrunn Palace, the Habsburgs’ former summer residence. The Baroque complex, with its 1,441 rooms, was built under Maria Theresia in the 18th century and, like the palace park and the zoo, has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The complex also houses the Schloss Schönbrunn Children’s Museum and the award-winning Marionette Theater at Schönbrunn Palace. A Christmas market and an Easter market bring the grand Ehrenhof to life. 

The sprawling grounds – featuring the Gloriette, the Neptune Fountain, and the Palm House – are open to the public. The 2,500 square-meter Palm House accommodates more than 4,500 plant species from around the world, while the Imperial Carriage Museum presents the Habsburgs’ carriages and exquisite garments. Every year in June, the Vienna Philharmonic performs its Summer Night Concert in the palace park. 

Directly adjoining the palace complex is the Schönbrunn Zoo. It was founded in 1752 as an imperial menagerie and is therefore regarded as the oldest zoo in the world still in operation today. Today it is home to more than 700 animal species across an area of 17 hectares. 

Architecture of Viennese Modernism

Hietzing is a key showcase for early 20th-century modernist architecture in Vienna. A highlight is the Villa Beer at Wenzgasse 12, a residence built in 1930 for the industrialist Julius Beer that is open to visitors today. Josef Frank, later world-famous as chief designer of Svenskt Tenn in Sweden, designed the villa, now a key work of the Second Wiener Moderne.

© Hertha Hurnaus

There are other exceptional buildings of early modernism to admire a stone’s throw from Villa Beer. Haus Scheu at Larochegasse 3, for example, an important work by Adolf Loos from the early 1910s that is considered Central Europe’s first terraced house. It’s a real eye-catcher from the outside (no public admission). There is also Haus Rufer at Schließmanngasse 11, designed by Adolf Loos in 1922: a prime example of the realization of Adolf Loos’ concept of the “Raumplan”, with interlocking rooms and varying ceiling heights.

The Emperor’s Art Nouveau private railway station

The Otto Wagner Hofpavillon on Hietzinger Hauptstraße is definitely worth a visit; it was built in 1899 as a private imperial train station for Franz Joseph I on what was then the Stadtbahn. This early major work of Viennese Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) impresses inside with a mahogany-paneled waiting room with original furnishings. The large painting by Carl Moll, one of the emperor’s favorite painters, shows Vienna and the Stadtbahn network from a bird’s-eye view. Incidentally, the emperor only ever used his exclusive pavilion to travel on the Stadtbahn twice. Open to visitors!

Klimt-Villa

Hietzing was also a place of work for one of the most important painters of Viennese Modernism. In 1911, Gustav Klimt rented a single-story garden house at what is now Feldmühlgasse 11, which he used as his studio until his death in February 1918. Some of his key late works were created here. After Klimt’s death, the garden house was converted into a neo-Baroque villa. Today, the Klimt Villa presents a reconstruction of the former studio as well as the permanent exhibition “Klimt Lost”. Damask roses, propagated from Klimt’s original garden, bloom on the 6,500-square-meter grounds; from May to September, the garden café is a lovely place to sit.

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Cuisine: from Tafelspitz to coffeehouse culture

Classic Viennese cuisine with a home-style flair shapes the culinary scene in Hietzing. Plachutta Hietzing on Auhofstraße is one of the most famous places in Vienna to enjoy Tafelspitz – that cut of beef from the hip that is cooked in salted water with root vegetables and is considered one of the hallmarks of Viennese cuisine.

Plachutta also has a branch called Mario on Lainzer Straße. It exudes urban flair in the middle of greenery, complete with a spacious terrace. The focus is on pasta and grilled dishes. 

For coffeehouse tradition, there is the Café Dommayer, now run by Kurkonditorei Oberlaa Wien. The café is known for its pastry kitchen, features an inviting Biedermeier interior, and has a sidewalk café with a historic ambiance. 

Spend a night in imperial surroundings

Those staying overnight in Hietzing can do so in a setting that is historically appropriate for the district. The Austria Trend Parkhotel Schönbrunn literally stands on historic ground: Dommayer’s Casino was located here until 1908 – it was an entertainment venue where Johann Strauss I and Johann Strauss II performed. The building erected on the casino grounds in 1907/08 originally served as an imperial guesthouse. Today, a bronze relief above the hotel entrance commemorates Casino Dommayer.

Directly adjacent, and connected to the Parkhotel on the ground floor, is the Austria Trend Hotel Maximilian, named after Emperor Maximilian I of Mexico. His monument stands opposite the hotel on Hietzinger Platz. 

Lively Altgasse

The Altgasse, as its name suggests, is the district’s oldest lane. The first houses were built in 1428, when the area was still dominated by pastures, fields, and vineyards. Today, the lane is a traffic-calmed, landscaped shared space. Two venues draw visitors from across the city: the Waldemar Tagesbar stands out for its industrial interior with gray walls, metal pipes, and a disco ball, paired with an expansive glass front. The concept is urban; the menu ranges from international breakfast to shakshuka and bowls to roasted sandwiches.

The Nook at Altgasse 12 is a small specialty coffeehouse with a Greißlerei (local delicatessen). It focuses on specialty coffee, vegetarian and largely vegan cuisine, as well as homemade cakes and snacks.

Shopping tip: Super.

For anyone in the mood for shopping in Hietzing, one recommendation is the multibrand boutique Super. It carries designer fashion, lifestyle products, and an in-house label called Studio Super. Super. is one of the few places in Hietzing that offers explicitly curated, contemporary retail.