Students now walk to and from where doctors once hurried through the ten courtyards. For over two centuries, the building complex of the former General Hospital – known today as the Altes AKH (AAKH) – has shaped the Alsergrund district. In 1784, Emperor Joseph II transformed the former Great Poorhouse into a general hospital modeled after the Hôtel-Dieu in Paris. Although the building itself is old, it always feels alive. Today, the site serves as the campus of the University of Vienna. The long history of medicine is palpable all around the former hospital and throughout the neighborhood.

The perfect starting point for a walk through the student quarter is the Votive Church, located right next to the Schottentor subway station. The church was built as a gesture of thanks following the failed assassination attempt on Emperor Franz Joseph. It is considered one of the most important neo-Gothic structures in Europe. It is well worth taking the time to look inside. Universitätsstrasse begins to the left of the church. Between the typical Viennese historicist buildings, wide sidewalks, green strips and new planted bike paths create an almost park-like atmosphere. 

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A few minutes’ walk further out of town will reveal Ostarrichipark on the right-hand side. This is where the Shoah Wall of Names stands, surrounded by a colorful flower meadow. With 160 oval-shaped marble plaques, it commemorates the Jewish men, women and children from Austria who were murdered during the Nazi era. This memorial marks the beginning of the historic part of the district. The Austrian National Bank is located just behind it. The onsite Money Museum offers the opportunity to immerse yourself in the history of money. 

Passing through Ostarrichipark, you reach the first of the ten courtyards of the Altes AKH. This courtyard is a hotspot for many students attending the University of Vienna. Non-students also often take a break in the green and shady courtyards. Despite its central location, it remains undisturbed by the hustle and bustle. As the host of the Salettl Summer Camp and the idyllic Christmas Village in winter, the first courtyard has the most going on. A tip for those interested in medical history: if you cross Courtyard 1, you can reach Mariannengasse via Spitalgasse. There you will find the Viktor Frankl Museum. It offers insights into the world of the founder of logotherapy. It is also the only museum in the world dedicated entirely to the personality of Viktor Frankl.

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Back in the Old General Hospital, the courtyards become quieter and greener further into the heart of the complex. After the third courtyard behind the Tietze Gate, a dark chapter in Vienna’s medical history awaits: the Madhouse Tower. This five-story tower was, when it was built in 1784, the first psychiatric clinic in continental Europe. Because of its round shape, it was once nicknamed “Emperor Joseph’s Gugelhupf”. But behind this innocuous-sounding nickname lays a place where people with mental illnesses were often subjected to painful and questionable treatments. Today, it houses the largest collection of pathological and anatomical artefacts, with around 50,000 exhibits. Visiting the Narrenturm is therefore not for the faint of heart.  

The historical journey continues – behind the Narrenturm, a small path leads out of the old hospital grounds. Soon, Arne-Karlsson Park appears at the intersection of Währinger Straße and Spitalgasse. Nestled between lawns and trees, a World War II bunker that is still accessible today serves as a museum and a reminder of the dark period between 1939 and 1945.

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Währinger Straße, by contrast, is a vibrant mix of small shops selling antiques, luxury or vintage furniture and eateries. Heading back towards the city center and the Votive Church, on the right-hand side you’ll find the Josephinum, an important medical history museum. Here, you can discover 2,500 significant objects, including world-famous anatomical wax models, medical instruments and manuscripts. Highlights include the first endoscope from 1806 and a handwritten résumé by Sigmund Freud. The file used to murder Empress Sisi in 1898 is also kept at the Josephinum. 
A little further down Währinger Straße is the Votiv Kino – a cinema with historic charm, but a program featuring current films.

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So much history works up an appetite. The area around the Votive Church is alive with culinary delights. Perfect for a break are the Café Franςais, the Café Stein or the Jonas Reindl Café. Students in particular, hurrying from one institute to the next, love to stop in here. Behind the Votive Church, the restaurant Aspic offers fine dining. If you can’t find a seat in one of the restaurants, the Votivpark or the Sigmund Freud Park, both with views of the Votive Church, are perfect alternatives.

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